Since 2003, Chantal Sanier has been creating, within Odeur de Sainteté, her brand of supernatural perfumes, fragrances as singular and rich as the beings for whom they are intended, up to the absolute dream, the made to measure fragrance. At the same time, her olfactory installations revive, at the Palais Royal, in the Parc de Saint-Cloud, the memory of characters buried in ours.
Conversation with Chantal Sanier, excerpts :
Sense: l’État de grâce, l’Enfant de Cœur, l’Amer Supérieur, Saint Glin-glin. (Four fragrances from the Odeur de sainteté collection).
You feel their very different universes, this richness and these nuances are very complicated to elaborate, and the people who work in synthesis are very far from achieving it. The plant sends us so many signals that we must be able to capture them, to domesticate them. To create perfumes with plants, you have to start by doing what I do with them; accompanying them, living with them, talking to them, allowing them to grow back, I address the plants as one prays in heaven, so it is, I am obliged to collaborate with them, otherwise, nothing happens. One can see it as an esoteric or magical practice, but it is only a question of addressing a part of our world, and making this matter that is common to us vibrate.
1, 2, or 3?
A single smell can hold the desire high enough. Synthetic materials and perfumes, which are not very complex, can be easily combined, with a result that is always a little simplistic and cold. The depth of the plant is different, no smoothing, the materials express themselves in turn and the richness of the information they deliver – in a living person, who herself gives to feel what she is, and what she lives at every moment – is such that careful handling is preferable. I fear that the over-multiplication of perfumes will lead to cacophony, however, one can imagine a very sensitive and sensual being, who knows how to play with his body and the perfumes that inhabit it and complete it. I’ve done it before, sometimes I’m a little bulimic.
Odeur de Sainteté
An artistic experience that leads to commerce is still quite classic. I was fortunate to be chosen and accompanied by people I love, including my brother, throughout the creation of this Odeur de Sainteté. After many years spent in an advertising agency assimilating everything I could learn about the perfume market and its marketing, the trends presented few mysteries to me. I started with these smells, not old, but composed as they would have been centuries ago, up to tailor-made fragrances. This work allows me to concretize these vegetable impressions that I feel in the presence of certain humans*. Art does not consist in sticking a smell, however fascinating it may be, on a living being, but in perceiving in this being something of the order of visceral necessity, of deep desire, the more I touch this, the more I gain passion, the more I go through its memory, and what we find will be translated into olfactory expression, via plants.
Read the entire conversation with Chantal Sanier